Few things are more quintessentially Southern than barbecue.

Meat and smoke are a primordial combination that has been wholeheartedly adopted south of the Mason-Dixon line by both backyard enthusiasts and expert chefs.

Pork is the comestible of choice for barbecue in Georgia, but beef brisket and chicken also have their fans. In Cherokee, we have been blessed with several ‘cue joints that satisfy all appetites.

Trying to pinpoint the best of these, however, is tantamount to picking the “best” genre of music. I may not like country western as much as jazz, for example, but I can appreciate them both. Assessing the worthiness of any bar-becue is purely a function of personal preferences and tastes.

On a recent spree, I found four local ‘cue places that serve up some downright mouthwatering grub. Each had items that were excellent and deserving of special mention.

Amos BBQ

697 Hightower Trail

Ball Ground

(770) 889-3866

Word of mouth is what brings you to Amos BBQ. It may be the only way you’ll know it’s there, unless you drive Cherokee’s back roads. And this tiny place in Ball Ground has no Web page and little mention on the ‘net.

But for those who search out this off-the-beaten-track location on Ga. Hwy 369, it will be culinary experience akin to the best aspects of an old-fashioned church supper or a barbecue at the local veterans’ hall.

The vintage 1920s house was once part of an estate north of Sandy Springs on Peachtree Dunwoody Road. Moved in ‘81 to its current site, it was a residence until present-day owner Paul Johnson renovated it and opened his barbecue restaurant in 2004.

There’s no printed menu; the bill of fare is handwritten on the board up behind the counter. After you’ve ordered, grab one of the 18 seats inside the tiny dining area or at one of the two tables on the outdoor deck. Your food will find you.

Johnson uses only a wood-burning smoker that gets no help from gas or electric power. Per customer preference, he says, he’s careful about the amount of smoke he allows to get into the meats. His baby back ribs are meaty and tender and just lightly smoky.

His chopped pork is a mix of lean fresh ham and pork butt, left on the smoker for 16 hours. Meat is pulled from the bone, then coarsely chopped. Sauce it lightly with the house blend or ask for Johnson’s special habanero sauce, and you have a great sandwich.

Sides here are all good, but a few have particular merit. The Brunswick stew is the absolute best I’ve ever had, hands down. The cole slaw is super fresh, crunchy and subtly flavored with celery seed and a pinch of dill. And even though they’re not homemade, you don’t want to pass up the fried apple sticks dusted with cinnamon sugar. They’re an ideal complement to the pork.